Milford Sound Lodge, Milford Sound, South Island, New Zealand
Milford Sound is, without doubt, one of the crowning glories of New Zealand. With thousands of visitors each year, the vast majority come and go on daytrips from Queenstown or Te Anau, with only a small proportion lingering for an overnight stay or longer. With just a single independent accommodation option in Milford Sound, we had reasonably low expectations for our stay at Milford Sound Lodge. But we were very pleasantly surprised by how very pleasant this little lodge is and would highly recommend a stay for anyone who is sensible enough to spend longer in Milford Sound.
We had been lucky with the weather in New Zealand up until now. Sunshine had been following our road-trip, providing stunning illumination of the South Island scenery and picture-perfect conditions for our hikes. But on our drive from Queenstown to Te Anau, the clouds began to billow, coalescing overhead as we began the 116 kilometre scenic drive from Te Anau to Milford Sound. The first few raindrops fell as we entered Fiordland National Park, and by the time we arrived at the Mirror Lakes, the mirror was muddled with concentric circles as the downpour really set in. Despite the rain and low cloud, it is still a spectacular drive, well deserving of its reputation as one of the great drives of New Zealand.
At the 100 kilometre mark, we reach the Homer Tunnel, a feat of engineering triumph that bores 1240 metres through granite mountain, and which upon its completion in 1953 finally opened up Milford Sound to the world. We wait our turn to enter the single-lane tunnel, eventually emerging on the far side… to one of the most breathtaking spectacles we have ever witnessed. On this side of the mountain range, it had obviously been raining heavily all day, and the surrounding hills are awash with cascading waterfalls in every direction. We are hard pressed to keep our eyes on the road as we descend the switchbacks and hairpin turns of this otherworldly scene, slowly making our way down into the lush forest of the valley and towards Milford Sound.
Milford Sound is not a town, but is the stepping off point for the numerous boat tours and scenic flights that explore this locale. There are no shops, no supermarkets and just two cafes. There are also only two accommodation options – the Mitre Peak Lodge and Milford Sound Lodge. The Mitre Peak Lodge is for exclusive use of guests on guided Milford Track walks. Which leaves the Milford Sound Lodge as the only accommodation option in Milford Sound for those independent visitors who, sensibly, want to spend more time in Milford Sound than a whistlestop day tour.
With no other options available, it would be easy for Milford Sound Lodge to put in minimal effort and rest on its laurels. Instead the converse is true – this boutique little lodge goes out of its way to make guests welcome and at home in their well-designed and impeccably well-run premises.
There are four accommodation choices at Milford Sound Lodge – powered campervan sites amongst the rainforest, mountain view chalets, 2-bedroom garden chalets, and the premium riverside chalets. We stayed in a premium riverside chalet, and can highly recommend this top-tier choice.
The Riverside Chalets are arranged in pairs just metres from the rushing Cleddau River. Petite but perfectly proportioned, each wooden villa has a combined bedroom and living area, with king bed, table and chairs, sofa and wide picture windows looking out on to the river and the mountains beyond. A screened window can be left open at night to fall asleep to the sound of the burbling river outside. There is a TV with Sky, a DVD player and reliable wifi. The chic kitchenette is well equipped, with bar fridge, convection microwave, toaster, kettle, sink, cutlery, crockery and glassware and a small array of cooking equipment. The bathroom is simple with toilet, single sink and shower over bath, but has underfloor heating and a heated towel rail, in addition to all the usual amenities. In front of each villa is small wooden deck with additional seating to look out over the river and waterfall-clad mountains, and each villa comes with a private parking space just outside the front door.
We can highly recommend Riverside Chalet six. Immediately adjacent to the viewing area, it has the best views of the river and mountains, and is the room featured on the lodge’s website.
An in-room continental breakfast is included in the room rate, and is a very well organised affair. An online form is emailed upon check-in, and guests can choose from a range of continental options, including granola and yoghurt pots, fruit salad, warm croissants with sweet or savoury fillings, freshly baked muffins, orange juice and barista-made coffee (for extra charge). A delivery time is selected from fifteen minute intervals from 0700 to 1000, and breakfasts were delivered promptly at the requested time in fully re-usable servingware, in line with the lodge’s sustainability practices.
The lodge is also host to Pio Pio Restaurant, a culinary highlight with incredible meals even more extraordinary given the remote location. The cosy restaurant is open for lunch and dinner and is often booked out well in advance. The menu features a small but big-hitting repertoire of New Zealand specialties, with locally sourced meats, seafood and vegetables. We can highly recommend the crispy Merino lamb ribs (phenomenal), the duck duo, and the wild venison gathered from the wilds of Fiordland. There are suggested wine pairings in addition to an extensive range of wines and beers, and service is attentive and welcoming. Again, our modest expectations for the only dinner restaurant in town were well and truly exceeded, and the food was wholesome, flavoursome and beautifully presented.
Overall, we had a wonderful time at Milford Sound Lodge and would highly recommend it to anyone looking for a comfortable and convenient base from which to explore this beautiful part of New Zealand. The Premium Riverside Chalets and Pio Pio restaurant are both excellent, and the staff are friendly and helpful. Don't miss the opportunity to stay at this fantastic lodge and spend more than a day trip in the wonder of the world that is Milford Sound.
