Cocos (Keeling) Islands, Australia
The key destination on this Indian Ocean adventure is Christmas Island, and the annual red crab migration – a wonder of the natural world that left even Sir David Attenborough enthralled. But the only way to get to Christmas Island is via a triangular flight path from Perth, that also takes in the nearby Cocos (Keeling) Islands en route. Surely it would be remiss of us to pass through the Cocos without stopping for a visit? And so a three day sojourn on the Islands beckons.
The Cocos (Keeling) Islands are a coral atoll in the north of the Indian Ocean, a tiny speck in the ocean about halfway between Australia and Sri Lanka, 1600 kilometres from the northwest of WA and 1270 km southwest of Jakarta. Formed millions of years ago when a massive volcanic crater collapsed into the sea, the atoll is an almost circular chain of 27 low-lying islands surrounding an azure-watered lagoon.
In addition to their picturesque beauty, the islands have a fascinating history.
First discovered in 1609 by British sea captain William Keeling of the East India Company, the islands remained uninhabited for another two centuries, before being settled almost simultaneously by two men in the early 1800’s!
The first was a wealthy Englishman by the name of Alexander Hare, who arrived on Home Island with a volunteer harem of 40 Malay women in 1826. The second was Scottish sea merchant Captain John Clunies-Ross, who had first visited the islands in 1825, and returned to settle in 1827, only to find it already claimed. After several years of feuding, Clunies-Ross emerged the victor, and established a dynasty that would rule the islands for decades, before eventually becoming an Australian territory in 1955.
This tiny part of the world also punches above its weight in terms of world history, with significant roles during both World War I and World War II. In WWI, the Cocos Cable Telegraph Station was attacked by the German raider SMS Emden, with the subsequent naval battle with Australian vessel HMAS Sydney marking Australia’s first victory at sea. In WWII, more than 14,000 Australian and Allied troops were stationed on the islands, including 11 RAF squadrons, and provided a vital communication and infrastructure link for the Allies.
Fast-forward to the modern day, and just two of the islands are currently inhabited, the westernmost (and unimaginatively named) West Island and the northeastern Home Island. West Island is the largest island, home to the airport, the tourist office, a pub, a small number of accommodation options, and the vast majority of the 150 ex-pat Australian residents. Home Island, a thirty minute ferry ride across the lagoon, is home to about 450 descendants of the original Malay settlers, with strong Malay customs and traditions, a mosque, a Malay restaurant and streets with Malay names. But both islands exude a laidback beach vibe that is characteristic of any Australian seaside village. There are small boats in the front yards, everyone waves to everyone as they pass, no-one locks their cars or homes, and there is a languid and relaxed pace of life. It is a charming place to spend a few days.
Getting to The Cocos (Keeling) Islands
Flights to and from the Cocos (Keeling) Islands are only twice a week, currently on Tuesdays and Fridays. The Virgin Airlines B737 (since changed to A320 in 2020) flights visit both Indian Ocean Territories on their 3-leg route, flying to Christmas Island then Cocos Island on Tuesdays, and Cocos Island then Christmas Island on Fridays. So your stay on the Cocos Islands will be either 3 days, 4 days or 7 days (or longer), depending on your flights.
The Cocos (Keeling) Islands airport is petite, and should be straightforward to navigate, though admittedly an additional sign or two would be helpful! Walking off the tarmac, the airport points transit passengers in one direction (essentially, straight through a door to emerge at the front doorstep of the airport, simply to wait and then re-enter the airport for subsequent re-boarding), and arrivals in another direction, which is seemingly a dead-end room. While first-timers appear confused, locals and savvy travellers know to simply wait here for the luggage which will soon appear on a trailer. After self-service baggage retrieval, arriving travellers present their customs declarations (strictly enforced quarantines apply) and then exit the airport.
Outside, most travellers will be greeted by their accommodation providers. Given that the vast majority will be staying on West Island, hosts then simply walk their guests to their villas, nearly all of which are within a short walking distance of the compact central settlement.
Where To Stay In The Cocos (Keeling) Islands
The Cocos (Keeling) Islands are known for their laid-back, casual, idyllic lifestyle. They are not known for their luxury accommodation options. While there is currently nowhere that could be considered a luxurious place to stay, there are a number of very pleasant alternatives.
First choice would be the highly rated B&B ninetysixeast, where hosts Colin and Christine provide a stellar service for their guests (see our review here —> ninetysixeast, Cocos (Keeling) Islands, Australia). But with just one room for rent, they are frequently booked out, in which case, The Cocos Village Bungalows are a simple, but lovely alternative (see our upcoming 2020 review).
At the current time, nearly all of the small number of accommodation providers are on West Island. There is just one accommodation option on Home Island – the heritage-listed Oceania House, former home of the Clunies-Ross family, undergoing ongoing restoration works (stays here are described as “atmospheric” if perhaps a little spooky).
Where To Eat In The Cocos (Keeling) Islands
Destination dining this is not! And while there are actually several cafes and food stalls in the town, the tiny population of West Island could not possibly sustain them all, so they take turns in opening! A guide to each week’s openings is available from the airport or the tourist bureau (though even then, take opening hours and menu’s with a grain of salt).
At the Cocos Beach Resort, opposite the airport, the Tropika Restaurant is the only restaurant open 7 days. Serving typical Malay cuisine as well as western standards. It is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner for simple but flavoursome meals. Douse yourself in insect repellent and enjoy their alfresco dining area, which is much more atmospheric than their indoor dining room.
Immediately adjacent to the airport, the Cocos Club is Cocos (Keeling) Islands only bar. Open every evening from 5pm for drinks, it also serves dinner three nights a week, specialising in chicken parmigiana on Tuesday night, curries on Thursday night and burgers on Saturday night.
Saltmakers by the Sea is the most upmarket dining option available. It is usually open one or two nights a week, for well-executed and delicious meals in a stunning outdoor location overlooking the sea. Bookings are recommended, and are made by placing your name on the blackboard outside the door. It also, at times, offers a champagne brunch.
At the Big Barge Art Centre, a few minutes drive north of the town, there is now a café open at lunchtime several days per week.
The final option is Salties, a food stall outside the airport. It is open at breakfast on weekday mornings for coffee and toasted sandwiches, and one or two evenings a week for pizza night and kebab night. It is also open whenever a flight is due to depart, selling hot doughnuts and takeaway pizzas (which can be purchased after passing through security and can be taken on the flight, an option we recommend particularly in 2020 as service levels on the Virgin Flights have been pared back).
Many accommodation options in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands offer self-catering. Supplies can be obtained from the general store (open Monday to Saturday from 0800 to 1500), but it should be noted that the range of fresh produce available can be very limited, depending on what has been able to be freighted in recently. Dry goods and frozen meats and vegetables are in good supply, but fresh bread and fresh fruit and vegetables quickly sell out. To that end, returning locals and savvy travellers will often bring an esky of supplies from Perth – this is common practice and is well accepted, with Virgin airlines even providing plastic bags at the airport to wrap your esky. Just keep your purchase receipts to show at customs upon arrival, particularly for fresh fruit and vegetables which have strict quarantine measures in place.
What To Do In The Cocos (Keeling) Islands
This idyllic island escape is perfectly suited to laidback relaxation, but we would highly recommend a bit of time is spent exploring. To that end, a hire car is needed. If staying at ninetysixeast, a complimentary beach buggy is provided (for noisy but fun adventures); otherwise, Cocos Island Adventure Tours have RAV-4s and dual cab utes available for hire.
It takes barely 20 minutes to drive the single road from the north to the southeast of West Island, but en route there are multiple beaches and bays to explore. A short drive north of town is the beautiful Trannies Beach, complete with picnic shelters and barbecues (and wi-fi!). At the Rumah Baru boat jetty, turtles and reef sharks can be seen swimming in the shallows. At the southeastern end of the island, Scout Park and the Yacht Club are great for snorkelling or relaxing on the palm-fringed shores (while the beaches closer to town can be swum and snorkelled, the vast sand-bag retaining walls that protect the island’s infrastructure and residents make the beaches a little less salubrious).
Multiple beaches around the island are also renowned as fishing, surfing and kitesurfing locations, depending on the season.
For one of the most picture-perfect beaches in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands, it is hard to go past Cossies Beach on Direction Island. A day trip here should form part of any Cocos Island itinerary – see our guide here —> How to Visit Direction Island, Voted Australia’s Best Beach, Cocos (Keeling) Islands, Australia.
It is also possible to take the ferry across the lagoon to Home Island, a fascinating Malaysian village in the midst of Australia. With 450 descendants of Alexander Hare and his harem, Home Island has a picturesque village of brick paved streets and seaside bungalows, but with a distinctly Malaysian feel – street signs are in Malay, there are mosques and Malay architecture, a Malay restaurant and a grocery store stocked with traditional Malay provisions.
We can also highly recommend the tours provided by Cocos Island Adventure Tours, helmed by Ash and Kylie James. Their motorised outrigger canoe excursions are scheduled most days, in accordance with the tides. After instructions and a safety briefing, the two-person canoes are launched from the southern end of West Island, with guests in control of the stable and easy to drive vessels. The tour island hops along the deserted southern islets to beautiful snorkelling locations, spectacular beaches and historical sites, with drinks and snacks provided on more than one of the stunning beaches.
Good to Know Before You Go
The food situation. As mentioned above, there are only a small number of restaurants, with only one or two open on any particular night. And notably, all close early. If your flight is delayed much past 1900, there may literally be nowhere to get food on the night of your arrival.
Mobile telephone coverage – there isn’t any! No Telstra, no Optus, nothing. If you need to make a phone call, it will have to be from a landline (there is a public phone booth near the Cocos Club) or with wi-fi enabled calling (see below).
Internet access – in the absence of mobile phone coverage, there is no 4G or 5G on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands, there is an ever expanding wi-fi network, available at most accommodation and restaurants as well as several sites across the islands, including Trannies Beach, the Yacht Club and the main shelter on Direction Island. Wi-fi vouchers can be purchased from the Community Resource Centre (“CRC”), ranging from 1 hour (250MB for $5) to 1 week (5GB for $50). And handily, these can be pre-ordered and delivered to your accommodation, as the CRC is often closed at the time of flight arrival.
