Mount Mulligan Lodge, Queensland, Australia

Western Australia’s borders re-opened in early 2022, allowing the wonderful world of international travel once again.  But with airport and airline chaos rife in the first few months of re-opening, and with Australian tourism providers still reeling from pandemic-imposed lockdowns, we had no qualms about enjoying a few more of our planned Australian holidays before jetsetting further afield.

And so, a visit to another one of the Luxury Lodges of Australia – on this occasion, Queensland’s Mount Mulligan Lodge.

Located in Far North Queensland, beyond Cairns and the Atherton Tablelands, Mount Mulligan Lodge is an all-inclusive luxury retreat on a 28,000 hectare working cattle station. Here, just 20 guests at a time can enjoy the stunning scenery and quintessential experiences of back-country Queensland, from a world-class luxurious base.

The eponymous Mount Mulligan is a vast table-top monolith rising 400 metres above the surrounding forests and plains.  Stretching 18 kilometres from north to south, this majestic sandstone escarpment has immense cultural significance for the local Djungan people, who know it as Ngarrabullgan.

Nestled into its picturesque eastern flank lies Mount Mulligan Lodge. Opened in 2019, the newly built lodge is beautiful - architecturally stunning but blending in with its environment, modern, yet relaxed.

The focal point of the resort is the main pavilion, a grand wood and stone structure that encompasses reception, the bar, restaurant, lounge and library in a sweeping open-plan design. An immense two-sided stone fireplace soars to the lofty A-frame ceiling, whilst the whole area is surrounded by retractable glass doors that can be opened or closed according to the weather.

Along the long side of the building is a deep verandah, lined with repurposed oak beams, and set with just enough tables that each guest group has a front-row seat to the spectacular setting. Immediately ahead is the resort pool, a glittering infinity-edged oasis, surrounded by wood decking and swaying eucalypts. And beyond, the highlight of the resort, the long, meandering, paperbark-lined weir. The weir is man-made but spring-fed, and its sparkling waters are filled with barramundi and turtles. And in it, the imposing cliffs of Mount Mulligan are reflected, its burnt-red hues shifting in colour as the light changes from dawn to dusk.

Each of the lodge rooms shares a similar outlook over the weir and the backdrop of Mount Mulligan. Four separate buildings of hard wood and corrugated iron each house 2-3 rooms, in one of three configurations. The Outback Retreat villas are 34 square metres with a small balcony and wood-burning fireplace. The Outback Room villas are larger at 52 square metres and while they do not have a fireplace, they have a larger balcony with an atmospheric outdoor bathtub. And finally, the Outback Suite villas combine the best of both, an 89 square metre space with a separate lounge, and both a fireplace and an outdoor bathtub. It is also possible to combine an Outback Room and an Outback Suite (as an “Outback Pavilion”) via interconnecting doors for a two-bedroom family suite.

All lodge rooms share the same contemporary design aesthetic. Outside, timber cladding, louvre windows and deep verandahs reflect the Australian heritage. Inside, the suites are modern and chic - all crisp linens and tan leather in rich earthy tones. The main room has hard wood floors and a high raked ceiling, with wide glass doors that open onto the deck and the photogenic corrugated iron bath. Black cabinets contain practical items such as torches, binoculars and yoga mats, as well as a generous complimentary mini-bar, with ** and **. Adjacent, the walk-in wardrobe flows into the striking bathroom, with dark stone tiles offset by warm brass fittings and pendant lanterns. Each villa also comes with its own electric buggy, for when the short walk to the main pavilion is too onerous (or more likely, the short walk home after a decadent dinner!).

Dining at Mount Mulligan Lodge

On that note, the meals at Mount Mulligan Lodge deserve special mention. Stays at Mount Mulligan include breakfast, lunch and dinner, in addition to nightly canapes and a never-ending supply of ridiculously good freshly baked cookies. The lunch and dinner menus change daily, and feature a range of locally sourced, seasonal produce.

Breakfast is available from a leisurely 8am, with an a la carte selection complimented by fruit, pastries, Skybury coffees, T2 tea and a smoothie of the day.

Lunch is light and contemporary - perhaps an asian-style salad with chicken and green papaya, or delicate fish tacos with guacamole and salsa. Alternatively, the kitchen can prepare a packed picnic lunch if adventuring further afield.

In the late afternoon on alternate days, sunset drinks are held at the Sunset Bar, a rustic corrugated iron shed on the crest of a nearby hill, a short buggy journey away. Here, with cocktail or cold beer in hand, guests can watch the sun descend behind Mount Mulligan, its crimson peaks casting lengthening shadows across the surrounding valleys and fields.

On other nights, evening drinks are served around the fire pit beside the weir, with canapes amongst the chirruping frogs as the stars come out.

Dinners are multi-course affairs of exquisitely prepared food, served at individual tables. Freshly baked breads arrive first, followed by a ******

On the beverage front, a wide array of beers, spirits and Australian wines are included, while cocktails and international wines are available for purchase.

One evening, we took the opportunity for a private dinner, called “Dining Under the Stars”. At an intimate candle and lantern-lit table by the water’s edge, an indulgent degustation menu was served with matching wines. Book ahead for this decadent experience.

Activities at Mount Mulligan Lodge

Guests at Mount Mulligan are encouraged to do as much or as little as they want during their stay. Lazing by the infinity pool, fishing for barramundi, kayaking on the weir, or taking a siesta on your verandah daybed are all perfectly acceptable ways to spend your days. But if feeling more adventurous, there are numerous activities offered by the lodge to enhance your understanding of this unique corner of Far North Queensland.

The nearby township of Mount Mulligan is a highlight of any visit to the region. Now a ghost town, the area was once home to a thriving community surrounding the Mount Mulligan coal mine. It is also the site of one of Australia’s worst mining disasters, with a mine explosion in 1921 leading to the deaths of 75 workers. Guided tours from the Lodge provide an informative and captivating account of the town’s history, as you explore the evocative ruins.

Another historical tour is to the Tyrconnell Gold Mine, taking in the remains of the prospectors’ village and an array of authentic mining infrastructure that demonstrates the painstaking operations of extracting and processing gold.

To get a glimpse of Queensland station life, join in a Mount Mulligan Station tour, journeying across the rugged landscape in an open-sided vehicle to meet some of the thousands-strong Brahman cattle and hear about life on a modern cattle station.

Or get behind the wheel of your own all-terrain vehicle on a guided ATV tour, wending your way on four wheel drive tracks through forests and across creeks to picturesque lookouts, whilst hearing about the natural environment and the fascinating indigenous history of the region.

Finally, if you can muster up the energy for some hiking, there are numerous trails in the region, including guided hikes to nearby waterfalls and waterholes, accompanied with cheeseboards and G&Ts.

Getting to Mount Mulligan Lodge

There are two options for your journey to Mount Mulligan Lodge.

The first is a 35 minute helicopter from Cairns.

The flight provides views of the nearby Daintree Rainforest, the Atherton Tablelands as well, of course, the Station and Mount Mulligan itself.

Alternatively you can access the lodge via road, also from Cairns. In this case it is a two and a half to three hour drive. The final hour or so is on an unsealed road, and the Lodge goes to great lengths to warn guests it is of poor quality and highly recommend (in fact pretty much demand) that you only attempt it with a 4WD. Alternatively, a private transfer (in a suitable vehicle) can be arranged for you.

We adhered to the guidance and hired a 4WD, but of course that whole process is not as easy as it sounds. Even genuine 4WD vehicles ususally come with a disclaimer that they are uninsured on many unsealed roads. Our hire car company tried to talk us into a mine site equipped vehicle, which is permitted to go off road, though we opted against this feeling like it was almost certainly unnecessary.

The truth is, at least at the time we visited, the road was not that bad at all, and we saw multiple vehicles on it, plus those parked in the lodge car park, that were most definitely not 4WD, some not even AWD, and no body seemed to have any trouble.

Time of year, and prevailing weather which can result in occasional road closures, is likely to be a major factor here, so chose wisely (or better yet, take the Lodge’s advice and fly). More on driving below…

The Station Gate at Mount Mulligan Lodge

All dining and libations take place in the Main Pavilion.

The Main Pavillion

Activities include tours of the old Mount Mulligan township with a focus on the Mount Mulligan mine disaster. The story, and the arguable warning provided to the local indigenous folk prior to it’s occurence, and highly fascinating and well worth experiencing.

There are also tours of a nearby abandoned gold mine, electric buggy adventures and visits to a water fall and swimming hole on the side of Mount Mulligan.

View of Mount Mulligan while on the electric buggy activity.

The Main Pavilion is located on a man-made weir with an equally man-made pool as a second swimming option. Fishing rods are provided at the Pavilion so you may also fish in the weir.

The Lodge Pool with the weir in front. You can swim in both. You can also kayak, standup paddle board and fish in the weir (and the fishing is pretty easy to put it mildly).

The fire pit is lit most evenings.

For now, this post is some what of a place holder at present, we are working on our photos and the rest of our review and will update as soon as we can. Check back again soon :)